Every autumn, the watchmaking world holds its breath in anticipation of the Grand Prix d’Horlogerie de Genève (GPHG). A veritable “Oscars of watchmaking”, this event honors timepieces that stand out for their creativity, craftsmanship and technical excellence. For the 2025 edition, we have chosen 15 watches from the official selection that particularly impressed us. Each in its own way illustrates the diversity and vitality of contemporary haute horlogerie. Here’s our overview, category by category.
Tiffany & Co – Bird on a Rock Legacy Tanzanite (Ladies’ category)
The Tiffany & Co. watch pays homage to the iconic brooch designed by Jean Schlumberger, with its bird delicately set on a precious gem. Here, a two-carat tanzanite instantly catches the light and the eye. The white mother-of-pearl dial and meticulously set diamonds reinforce the jewel-like elegance of the whole. Above all, this is a piece of artistic expression that transcends the notion of a simple watch. It proves that time can also be a showcase for poetry.
Chopard – Impériale Four Seasons (Complication for women)
With this creation, Chopard has succeeded in combining feminine elegance with mechanical complexity. Each season is represented through refined decorations that enliven the dial, giving symbolic depth to the passing of time. The timepiece is not just beautiful: its mechanism illustrates a real mastery of horological complications. The balance between technique and aesthetics is perfectly respected. It’s a watch designed to seduce both the eye and the mind.
Daniel Roth – Extra Flat Rose Gold (Time Only)
The Time Only category rewards the most sober watches, and this Daniel Roth is a masterful example. With its extra-flat rose gold case, it embodies purity and timeless elegance. Perfect proportions and meticulous finishing demonstrate that you don’t need complications to impress. The art of simplicity lies in the refinement of detail. This watch is a hymn to chic discretion.
Laurent Ferrier – Classic Auto Horizon (Male)
Laurent Ferrier’s quest for balance and sobriety is a constant, and this Classic Auto Horizon is proof of that. The smooth lines of the case and the harmonious dial offer a rare elegance. Behind this apparent simplicity lies a movement of exemplary reliability and precision. The watch is equally at home in everyday life or in more formal settings. It is the very essence of the classic men’s watch.
Parmigiani Fleurier – Toric Quantième Perpétuel (Complication for men)
The perpetual calendar is one of watchmaking’s most fascinating complications, and here Parmigiani offers a masterful interpretation. Despite the complexity of the indications, the dial presents the information in a highly legible manner. The Toric case, elegant and well-balanced, reinforces the beauty of the whole. The meticulous finishing illustrates the company’s exceptional expertise. This is a watch that combines utility, tradition and technical excellence.
Breguet – Classique Souscription 2025 (Iconic)
Breguet revisits the spirit of the subscription watches imagined by Abraham-Louis Breguet at the end of the 18th century. The simple yet refined dial pays tribute to the company’s classic aesthetic language. The well-balanced proportions and quality finishing immediately appeal to lovers of traditional watchmaking. Behind its apparent sobriety lies a unique historical depth. This timepiece naturally stands out as a symbol of the Iconique category.
Louis Vuitton – Tambour Taiko Spin Time Air Flying Tourbillon (Tourbillon)
Louis Vuitton continues to explore creative territory with this spectacular watch. The Spin Time mechanism, which displays the time by means of rotating cubes, is combined here with an aerial flying tourbillon. The result is at once technical, playful and visually impressive. The Tambour Taiko illustrates the company’s determination to establish itself as a serious player in the world of haute horlogerie. It’s an eye-catching watch that leaves no one indifferent.
Greubel Forsey – Nano Foudroyante (Mechanical exception)
Greubel Forsey is constantly pushing back the boundaries of mechanical watchmaking, and the Nano Foudroyante is a prime example. The Foudroyante complication, which displays fractions of a second, achieves unprecedented precision. The miniaturization and fluidity of the movement are fascinating. Aesthetically, the watch retains the brand’s architectural DNA. It is a radically innovative timepiece, worthy of its category.
Angelus – Yellow Gold Telemeter Chronograph (Chronograph)
Angelus has created a vintage chronograph with undeniable charm. The yellow gold case and telemetric scale recall the golden age of instrument watches. The modern, precise movement guarantees reliable everyday use. The whole is both nostalgic and resolutely contemporary. A watch that will appeal to enthusiasts of historic chronographs.
Ressence – Type 7 GMT Sport Chic (Sport)
With the Type 7, Ressence confirms its unique approach to time display. The orbital system offers an original and intuitive reading of the information. The watch’s sporty yet elegant styling makes it versatile. The integrated GMT accentuates its vocation as a travel companion. A refreshing proposition in the Sport category.
C-1 × Mr Jones Watches – Celestial Moonphase (Joaillère)
This piece showcases jewelry creativity with an almost dreamlike vision of time. The moon phase becomes a celestial spectacle set with precious stones. The originality of the collaboration between C-1 and Mr Jones Watches brings a breath of modernity. It’s a far cry from the classic watch, but rather an objet d’art horloger. It is the perfect illustration of the poetry of the jewelry category.
Chopard – L.U.C Quattro Spirit 25 Straw Marquetry (Métiers d’art)
Chopard has once again made a name for itself in the field of fine craftsmanship. The straw marquetry dial is a rare and demanding feat of craftsmanship. Each strand is cut and assembled by hand, creating a decoration of the utmost finesse. The Quattro movement, with its four barrels, guarantees impressive autonomy. It’s a perfect marriage of craftsmanship and fine watchmaking.
Nomos – Club Sport Neomatik Worldtimer (Small hand)
Nomos confirms its talent for offering accessible yet technically accomplished watches. The Worldtimer provides an intuitive display of the different time zones. The design remains faithful to the Bauhaus aesthetic dear to the brand. Ergonomics and lightness make it ideal for everyday use. It proves that innovation and simplicity can go hand in hand.
Eclipse – Eclipse (Challenge)
The Challenge category spotlights young houses or bold proposals, and the Eclipse is a fine example. Its modern design and efficient mechanics are seductive in their sincerity. This watch does not seek to imitate, but to propose a new vision of time. Its value for money makes it a serious contender in this category. It demonstrates that the next generation of watchmakers is already well established.
L’Épée 1839 × MB&F – Albatross (Mechanical clock)
This sculptural clock illustrates the creative genius of MB&F combined with the traditional savoir-faire of L’Épée 1839. The Albatross is more than a measuring instrument: it’s a mechanical work of art. The bold design echoes the elegance of the great bird in flight. Behind this visual poetry lies high-precision watchmaking. A perfect conclusion to our selection.
This GPHG 2025 selection highlights the richness of today’s watchmaking creation. From jewelry pieces to the wildest complications, as well as more accessible timepieces, each category demonstrates the vitality of the sector. More than ever, watchmaking is asserting itself as an art in its own right, capable of combining beauty, ingenuity and emotion. On November 13, we’ll know which houses will walk away with the coveted Aiguilles d’Or. But for now, 2025 will be remembered as an exceptional vintage.
